American Plate - Bite #14: Beaver Tail

Monday, July 22, 2019 0 comments
Well, this is surprising. Some of the Bites on the American Plate list are so common that it'd be an event if I didn't eat them twice a week. Some are more specialized, but I know exactly where to go to pick some up. A few present a significant challenge. And then there's beaver tail, for which I fully expected I'd have to skip and substitute something else. I even called it out with some certainty in my initial post as being impossible to track down. Turns out, I was wrong! Tiddy has a list project of his own, which involved stopping by the Soulard Farmer's Market, and lo and behold, one of the vendors there was selling full beaver carcasses, complete with tail. I jumped at the chance, and good thing I did, because the vendor told me I was snagging the last one of the season. Are beavers secretly popular?

The book's entry on beaver tail essentially breaks down into two topics: The fact that people don't really eat this anymore, and a description of the two groups that did, in fact, eat it more out of necessity than anything else. Early Native Americans, of course, had very active lifestyles, and needed the caloric bomb that the fatty beaver tail provides. The other big group was fur trappers, who had to spend the winter out tracking down materials for coats, collars, and hats. Beavers were extremely handy from a trapper's point of view; the pelt could be sold, and the tail could be eaten. Beaver populations actually dwindled in the east because of all this trapping, which helped spur western expansion. Heck, I live in St. Louis, which was founded by fur traders.


Buying beaver was the first step; figuring out what to do with it was the next challenge. The book includes a preparation for grilling the tail, but we had an entire animal on our hands. Lots of internet articles and YouTube videos were consulted. The tail was relatively simple, once the messy work of chopping it off was done. Tiddy did all the butchering work on this one (for which I definitely owe him one), and we took it over to his parents' place. They were excited to be part of the process, and his stepdad grilled the tail on a charcoal grill until the skin bubbled up and I could peel it off. I prepared a quick marinade of Cajun seasoning, butter, and black pepper, and we brushed it on the meat and re-grilled until it was done.


How did it taste? Well, the book refers to it as "gamey-tasting fat with swampy overtones," and I can't improve on that description. I'm glad I ate it, but am not in a hurry to do it again. As to the rest of the beaver, Tiddy carved off a pound or so, and incorporated it into a gumbo with andouille sausage and other Cajun seasonings. Served on rice with some corn on the cob on the side, it was pretty damed tasty! Again, probably not worth the work of carving up a rodent, but made for a decent lunch, and a fascinating experience.

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American Cake - Cake #7: Lemon and Molasses Spice Marble Cake

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Time Period: 1800-1869

Marbling is not an American invention. European bakers used this technique long before we did, but by the mid-1800s, it caught on here, most likely thanks to German immigrants. Professional bakeries offered this eye-catching design, but home cooks soon discovered that if they just dyed part of their batter with molasses and spices, they could recreate the effect. Or, they could use the method of just making two separate batters and swirling them together, which is what this recipe does.

It took until the end of the 19th century for chocolate to be incorporated into the dark batters, improving the range of marble cake flavors even further. No chocolate in this one, though. Half spice cake, half lemon cake, this cake uses the neat trick of dividing up the eggs; the yolks went into the molasses cake, and the whites went into the lemon one. In order to punch up the overall lemon flavor, there's also a simple preparation of lemon glaze to pour over the top.


That doesn't mean the overall preparation is simple, though. When a recipe requires two separate cake batters and egg whites whipped into soft peaks, you can either own three stand mixers, or you can prep one batter, transfer it to a bowl, clean the mixer, prep the second batter, transfer it to a bowl, clean the mixer, and prep the egg whites. I do not own three stand mixers, so this cake took...a while. In order to ensure a good swirl, I looked up a YouTube video about how best to combine the batters without making it look muddy.


It wound up looking pretty good, though my tube pan tends to give cakes that sad streak - I'll need to research if there's any way around that. And it wound up tasting pretty good - like the Martha Washington Great Cake, it tasted better on the second day. Unlike Martha's cake, though, I'm not sure the flavor justifies the work this cake requires. If I ever MUST make another marble cake and have a half day to devote to baking it, this is a perfectly enjoyable recipe, but it's doubtful that this one is going into the dessert rotation, unless I'm really in the mood to wash every dish in the house twice over.
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American Cake - Cake #6: Strawberry Shortcake

Sunday, July 14, 2019 0 comments
Time Period: 1800-1869

Wild strawberries were one of the tasty items awaiting American colonists when they crossed the Atlantic. The berries got put into jelly, syrup, and sweetened drinks, but it didn't take very long for people to figure out that they could combine the berries with the already-popular shortcake recipe to get something special. Crumbly shortcake/biscuits had been served since the very beginning of America, and despite a warning in an 1835 book claiming shortcakes were unhealthy, their popularity did not wane.

Strawberry shortcakes were a luxury, but humbler recipes for it began to pop up around the Civil War. Barely a handful of years later, it was already considered an American institution, helped along by the ability to ship the berries by rail. It's easy to see why they caught on so forcefully. Strawberry shortcake is extremely tasty, and simpler to prepare than a lot of other cakes.


As my delightful assistant hulled the berries and tossed them with sugar, I pulled together the dough. From there, it was a simple matter of cut, bake, and stack, with some homemade whipped cream on top for added effect. It's a perfect little summer dessert.

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