American Plate - Bite #77: Hershey Bars

While I'm not dreading any of the Bites I'll be sampling for this project, there's no denying that some of them are a lot more fun and accessible than others. I'm not even a sugar-hound, but I was very pleased to see Hershey Bars on the list. I mean, just about everyone enjoys chocolate in some way, shape, or form, so what is there to dislike about being tasked with wolfing some down? Americans can't get enough of it, but its popularity is anything but modern.

Archaeologists have found vessels in Olmec sites dating to about 1700 BC that still have remnants of chocolate in them. Ancient citizens of South American and Mesoamerican societies loved chocolate at any temperature in its natural, more bitter form. They consumed it as a drink, as medicine, or with added cocoa butter. Their intense love of chocolate caught the attention of European explorers, and it was speedily transported back to the Old World. Religious types feared it as a powerful aphrodisiac, so it was kept mostly under lock and key during the 16th century.

Chocolate couldn't stay secret forever, though, and once it was sweetened, it spent the 17th and 18th centuries exploding into popular use. It was definitely a luxury, but during the 1820s and '30s, a Dutch family named the Van Hootens developed a method of processing the beans that made cocoa powder a lot more affordable, allowing chocolate to filter down to the common man. By 1875, the Swiss had perfected milk chocolate.

While all this history is fascinating, this Bite is about one company and its instrumental role in spreading chocolate across the United States. Milton Hershey first ran across the chocolate-making process demonstrated at the Chicago World Columbian Exposition in 1893. He was utterly convinced that chocolate was the future of American sweets, and eagerly jumped into the business. By 1900, he had developed the Hershey Bar, and a short 3 years later, he sold off his existing caramel business to devote all his energy to chocolate.

We've seen time and again that the development and spread of certain food products can take years, if not decades or even centuries. This is emphatically not the case with Hershey Bars. After its development in 1900, its popularity immediately skyrocketed, and variations on it were rolling out in the blink of an eye. Hershey Kisses appear in 1907. Mr. Goodbar popped up in 1925. Hershey Syrup followed in 1926, and by 1938, Krackel was on the scene.

Hershey Bars weren't only used as sweets, though. It was also adapted into a high-calorie ration that could be given to soldiers during World War II. These D Rations were resistant to melting and lightweight, so they could be taken anywhere. They weren't developed to be a delightful treat, and in fact, and most servicemen detested them. They were certainly effective, though, and not only in a nutritional sense. Soldiers would give them out to civilians, some of whom were under-nourished children who really benefited from the calorie boost. American GIs gained a reputation for being generous and kind, and the Hershey company would get a military award for excellence for their participation in the war effort.

Happily, I didn't feel the need to eat military rations for this project. I started with the obvious: Just straight-up eating some Hershey Bars, though I did sneak a little variation in by getting one with almonds, too. You'll also note a bag of Hershey Miniatures in the pic. Those things are not only perfect for trick-or-treaters, but they're usually the sole method by which I can get my hands on Mr. Goodbar and Krackel, both of which I adore. The second picture features some Hershey Bars I broke up as an integral component to the S'mores plate I took to a party, which was very well-received. Though I didn't consume any for this particular project, I can also report that Hershey Syrup is my go-to if I ever find myself in need of chocolate milk.

Hershey is not without its drawbacks. The glut of milk and sugar means it doesn't taste enough like "real" chocolate to a lot of discerning eaters these days. I try to be more expansive in my food habits, and don't feel like I have to choose sides. It's true, I'll often want the stronger cocoa flavor in the bars and truffles made by one of my local chocolatiers. But that shouldn't preclude me from enjoying a Hershey bar from time to time. As I mentioned at the beginning of the entry, I don't have much of a sweet tooth, but even I have a fondness for the classics. Hershey represents different things to different people, but it's more than earned its reputation as a benchmark of American sweets.

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Dairy Delights and the Gift of the Fungi

Four Courses Podcast - Episode 19

Four Courses has undergone some upheaval in the past month, so you'll notice big changes in this month's episode, including a brand new course. We're delving into food from both land and sea, so if you don't already subscribe on iTunes or Stitcher, head on over to our blog and check out Episode 19!

Topics include Kampai Sushi Bar, the myriad uses of basil, the wide and wonderful world of cheeses, and the challenges of falling off the vegetarian wagon. We also welcome our first guest host, Jeffrey Ricker, whose books you should go buy immediately. Enjoy!

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Cookie Party: Volume 6

It's been forever since I've experimented with a new cookie recipe. Lately, if I've had the time to bake at all, I've mostly fallen back on familiar favorites. But I recently moved apartments, and in moving, I noticed a bookmark wedged into one of my cookbooks. I flipped to the marked page, and rediscovered what can only be described as the weirdest cookie recipe I've ever seen. It immediately intrigued me, not only because of its oddity, but for the fact that it looked relatively simple and I already had all of the ingredients on-hand.

Black Pepper Cumin Cookies
Sugar, Spice, and Everything Nice

I like to make a different kind of cookie each holiday season, but it's a bad idea to make a ton of cookies without a test batch first. This recipe seemed promising for December, so I spent an afternoon over Labor Day weekend giving them an initial try. As the name suggests, this recipe incorporates two ingredients I've never seen anywhere near cookies before: Black pepper and cumin. Whaaaaa? Are these cookies or a stir fry? Even stranger, there didn't seem to be much sweetness to counterbalance the spice. There's only a half dozen tablespoons of sugar in the entire batch.

Well, that's why they call it a test batch. Despite my confusion over the inclusion of heavy spice, the scarcity of sugar, and the complete absence of liquid ingredient components (no milk, no eggs), I figured they were worth a shot. One of the things I really like about this recipe is that it utilizes very few dishes. You can keep your mixing bowls in the cabinet for this one; everything is mixed in the food processor.

My question about where the "cookie" flavor comes in was somewhat answered by the butter in this recipe - a whopping two sticks. So, these were to be butter cookies accented with spice. Got it. Now I just wondered how strong the spice flavor was going to be. My delight with the simplicity of these cookies continued after the dough was made. All you have to do with it is make 1-inch balls, then flatten them with the palm of your hand onto a baking sheet covered with parchment paper. Easy prep and easy cleanup! Once my flattened cookies were ready to go, I just baked them until they were golden, then cooled them briefly on a rack.

The real test of these cookies would be in the reactions to their exceedingly strange flavor, so I gave them out to a bunch of friends, and asked for honest opinions. As with many things in life, I got a range from "Whoa. That's way too much cumin," to "Whoa. Give me the recipe immediately." The overall response, though, was far more positive than I thought it was going to be. I gave them to people I do not consider adventurous eaters, and got puzzled faces, followed by "They're really weird, but...I like them!" I liked them, too, though unlike their sweeter cousins, I probably couldn't eat more than four or so at a stretch. After looking down at my stomach, though, that may be a good thing.

These cookies are definitely a conversation starter. They may not be for everyone, but given their uniqueness, their simplicity, and their overwhelmingly warm reception, I think we've found a winner for the 2015 Holiday Cookie. Now I just need to stock up on butter.

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Kyle's Appetizer Platter

Four Courses Podcast - Special Episode 2

It's time for another Very Special Episode of Four Courses. Our last special episode was a flashback to some favorite Dessert segments of episodes past, but this all-Appetizer episode is brand new content. Kyle is branching off into some new creative ventures, and so we have to bid good-bye to him as a regular host. We had to mark the occasion, though, so we send him off by hitting the town and eating/drinking at some of his favorite places.

Go listen to the episode here to join us for stops at Pi Pizza, The Royale, The Kitchen Sink, The Cup, and The Fountain on Locust. Enjoy!

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American Plate - Bite #62: Bananas

It's fortunate that of the multitude of fruits that we eat these days, The American Plate chose bananas and blueberries to symbolize our country's historical relationship with that category of the food world. I detest cherries, but if they'd been selected for the book, I'd have gritted my teeth and suffered through it. Happily, instead of that tedious chore, I get to enjoy my absolutely favorite fruit. Man, do I love bananas. And I'm not alone in that love; bananas have been popular for what seems like forever. But how did they rise to prominence, and why are they listed in the book's Progressive Era section?

It's not as if bananas were suddenly discovered at the turn of the 20th century. Plenty of people were eating them in the tropical areas they were growing, and cultivating them as far back as 600 A.D. in Africa. The spread of bananas more or less followed the spread of Islam, as Arab traders made their way to Europe. Portugal introduced them to their colonies in South and Central America, where they gained another foothold.

As you've no doubt noted, bananas spoil quickly, so it's no surprise that they didn't make the jump to North America until the 1880s, when new technology allowed steamships to have refrigerated storage tanks. Suddenly, it was a whole new ballgame. Bananas began a rapid climb in popularity, thanks to a number of factors. Not only are they tasty and packed with vitamins, but as we saw in the entry on hot dogs, this was a time marked by great concern over the conditions in which food was being prepared. What could be better than a snack that has no toxic additives, and comes in its own germ-free wrapper?

Health wasn't the only public relations triumph that bananas enjoyed. They also meant big money for businesses that could establish a presence in Central America. These businesses were helped by president Theodore Roosevelt, who was expanding America's military and economic power in the region. Marketing played its part, too. Ellis Island was reaching its peak in the number of immigrants it was processing each day, and the United Fruit Company hit upon the idea of giving each new arrival a free banana as a welcome present and an inducement to become attached to them.

That tactic would have totally worked on me, by the way, though by this point in time, bananas would have been as exotic to American citizens as to the immigrants who were just arriving. It didn't take long for either group to latch on to these delicious fruits, and our country has never looked back, turning bananas into a dominating presence in modern produce sections.

It's no accident that bananas are among the first Bites to get logged, as I'm always eating them in one form or another. They're a perfect portable snack, but as you can see in the picture above, I like using them in recipes as well. That banana bread I've made a number of times, and has a healthy amount of spice. I like banana to be the star ingredient, though, and put no fewer than four into a single loaf. I also wanted to get experimental, so you can see my first attempt at Bananas Foster, as well. It wound up being fairly tasty, though I'd probably opt to make it a little sweeter next time.

There's no shortage of exotic foods in the world, and I'm excited to try the great majority of them. Part of me wishes I could see bananas as the wonder those turn-of-the-century Americans must have seen them as. But then I remember that far from them being a rare and strange marvel, now I can take a quick stroll to the local market and easily load up on the best fruit in the world. So I guess this is a pretty nifty time to be living, too.

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Crustacean Crushes and the Futuristic Sugar Robot

Four Courses Podcast - Episode 18

My god, is it hot outside. This is what I get for complaining about that first part of summer when it was cool and rained seven inches a day. But now that we've reached the intolerable heat and humidity part of the calendar, it's time to talk summer food. So head on over to Four Courses and check out Episode 18!

Topics include Peacemaker Lobster and Crab, the wrap-up of the Our Favorite Drinks seasonal segment, a comparison of regional barbecue styles, and the best snacks to enjoy at the movies. We go out on a Sell Me On... segment all about ice cream flavors that deserve a second chance. Enjoy!

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American Plate - Bite #61: Hot Dogs

Careful observers might take a look at the timeline on the main page of The American Plate Project and think to themselves: "Hey, why are hot dogs listed in the period from 1900-1928? Haven't people been eating sausages since forever ago?" Good catch, careful observer! It's true. Americans have been stuffing meats into casings for more than 200 years. Sausages, weiners, frankfurters, bratwurst... Whatever you call them, they were a part of the American experience long before 1900, and it's not difficult to see why. They're inexpensive. They're portable. They have a long shelf life (when dried). And though we're in no danger of forgetting this, they're delicious.

So why the placement in the Progressive Era? Because not only did the modern form of hot dogs come into vogue at the 1893 fair in Chicago, but hot dogs are a handy symbol of the big societal shift that occurred in that time when it comes to how our food is prepared. Everyone may have been eating sausages long before 1900, but there weren't many people verifying that the meat that people were consuming was safe. At that Chicago fair (the World's Columbian Exposition), an awesomely-named vendor, Anton Feuchtwanger, noticed that the white gloves he provided to customers who purchased his sausages had a habit of not being returned. His solution was to start serving the franks in long, narrow buns, and the present-day idea of a hot dog was born. From 1893 to 1906, hot dogs flew off the shelves (or the food carts, as it were).

But along came Upton Sinclair's The Jungle, and the party was over. Sinclair was attempting to expose the terrible working conditions of the men who toiled in Chicago's meatpacking slaughterhouses, but readers took a more self-interested lesson from it: The meat they were eating was being processed in disgusting, filthy conditions. There was a huge public outcry, and reformers immediately began advocating for federal legislation to improve the quality of food preparation.

Teddy Roosevelt was totally on-board with this, and a short six months later, the Pure Food and Drug Act was passed. The popularity of processed meats quickly bounced back, and by 1939, the reputation of the hot dog had been restored so thoroughly that Franklin D. Roosevelt served them to King George VI and Queen Elizabeth when the royal couple was visiting him in Hyde Park. News coverage of the picnic cemented the warm feelings between the United States and the United Kingdom, which was a pretty big deal, given the world war that loomed on the horizon.

So, it's entirely fitting that hot dogs are considered an intensely patriotic food, even to this day. I'm writing this a few days after the Fourth of July, and you can bet that plenty of hot dogs have been consumed this past week, and not just by me. They're not only handy for celebrating our nation's birthday, but other very American things, both noble (enjoying a footlong at a good ol' American baseball game) and ignoble (grabbing a quick hot dog from the local gas station because you don't feel like waiting for dinner).

Both of those activities are represented in the picture above, as well as a backyard BBQ, another extremely American activity. Come to think of it, though this entire project is about how our national identity has been shaped by what we eat, there may not be a more quintessentially American food on the list than the humble hot dog. So if you're a true patriot, do your civic duty and chow down on one with me.

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