American Plate - Bite #6: Blueberries

Tuesday, June 30, 2015 0 comments
In my entry on Pie (and the attendant research post), I noted that "As American as Apple Pie" is a bit of a misleading phrase, since apple pie was popular long before America was a country. If we want to accurately reflect our patriotism through fruit consumption, then your first step should be casually dropping "As American as Blueberry Pie" into your conversations. I'll willingly lead the charge on that one, because I love blueberries.

Blueberries are enjoying a cultural renaissance right now. "Superfood" is kind of a bullshit term, but there's no denying that these berries are bursting with nutrients, and are low in carbohydrates to boot, so they show up in several ingredient lists for a multitude of diets. Modern, health-conscious Americans aren't the only folks to do cartwheels over blueberries, though. Since they're indigenous to the American continent, and happily grow everywhere but the arid desert regions, they've been consumed for as long as people have been here.

Even Native American tribes that weren't big on agriculture found a lot of use for blueberries, gathering them fresh in summer and storing them dried for winter. While chili peppers could be used in the Southwest to flavor several dishes, the Northern tribes didn't have that luxury. Wild blueberries could be eaten as a snack, stirred into corn and bean mixtures, and made into easily portable pemmican bars with seeds, nuts, and buffalo meat/fat.


These days, blueberries mostly stick to fruit bowls or sweeter fare. I must admit I fell into that preconception for this project, as well. Sure, I threw back a handful or two of plain berries. But as you can see in the picture, the rest of them went into topping some ice cream, getting baked into a blueberry buckle, and enlivening some cinnamon-spiced cornmeal pancakes.

And sure, as with most people, I like blueberries in muffins and cupcakes and yogurt and such. But there was a time that blueberries were regularly made into sauces for meat dishes, and people don't really do much of that anymore, which is a pity. I remember having a calf liver dish with blueberry sauce in New York that knocked my socks off. Perhaps once all the Bites have been logged, I can look into re-elevating blueberries to Entree status in my cooking experiments. It'd be nifty if part of the American Plate Project could entail exploring new or forgotten ways of using familiar ingredients, and blueberries would be a fantastic starting point.
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Just Desserts

Tuesday, June 23, 2015 0 comments
Four Courses Podcast - Special Episode 1

Both Kyle and I have a lot of Big Life Stuff going on right now. In fact, me even having the internet connection to type this right now is a minor miracle. But instead of leaving a black hole of content, we're putting up a special episode: All Dessert.


These are our favorite and/or most popular Dessert segments of episodes past. You can listen to the episode here, and that post also includes links to the episodes when these segments originally aired. Enjoy!
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American Plate - Bite #99: Salsa

Thursday, June 11, 2015 0 comments
Very few of the Bites that comprise this project exist in a vacuum. Sure, there isn't much to connect Ginger Carrot Soup to the other entries, but most of these foods and drinks link quite naturally to at least one of the others, if not a big group of them. So, since the entry on Tostadas wasn't too long ago, it should come as no surprise that Salsa isn't far behind. With Cinco de Mayo still visible in our rearview mirrors, we're at the high point of the year as far as my salsa consumption.

Talking about it as if it's one homogenous product is a mistake, though. "Salsa" literally translates as "sauce" in Spanish, and obviously, there are about a bazillion kinds of sauces besides chunked up tomatoes with some cilantro in it. Ever enjoyed the smoky richness of a mole sauce? That's salsa. The summery freshness of corn mixed with beans and fruits? Salsa. The pungent mixture of avocados, garlic, and feta? Salsa.

Salsa has endless variations that are constantly being updated, so it's no accident that the aspect of American culture that this Bite represents in the book has to do with shifting demographics. Back in 1992, the New York Times reported that for the first time, people were buying more salsa than ketchup in the United States. There was some debate about the mathematics, given that ketchup and salsa are sold in different forms and quantities, but there was no arguing that Americans spent more than $100 million more dollars on salsa than ketchup. Naturally, this kicked up a lot of jingoistic hand-wringing about 'Murica and dem gosh-durned immigants coming to steal our jerbs.

Buried in that bigotry is the kernel of an interesting debate, though. What, exactly, is American food? My podcast partner and I tackled the idea of Patriotic Food in Episode 7 of Four Courses, but we only had time to barely scratch the surface. To my mind, there's nothing more American than welcoming all the cuisines of the world with open arms, and incorporating the best aspects of other countries' dishes into our own lives. Who could eat better than a country that embraces the fish dishes of Asia, the cheeses of Europe, and the sauces of the southern parts of the Americas? Nobody, that's who.


Let's get back to that general idea of tomato salsa, though. Unlike most Americans, I'm historically not a huge fan of salsa. I never buy it at the grocery store, and generally ignored it on restaurant tables up until just a few years ago. I'm always looking for ways to expand my culinary universe, though, and re-embracing salsa seemed like a natural step. This project certainly helped to kick experimentation with different restaurants' salsa recipes into high gear, too.

I've been pleasantly surprised by the results. Gone is the cheapass, leftover tomato gunk. Restaurants have realized that having a interesting salsa that someone put some actual thought into can give them a stamp of identity that customers latch onto. I've heard more than one recommendation for a place based just on the salsa that lands on the table before a single menu item has been ordered. Just look at the rainbow of colors and various textures of the salsas I've gotten recently in the pic above. Even though it's been popular for a long time, it seems like salsa has only recently gone through a creative resurgence.

And why wouldn't it? Salsa is one of the most adaptable Bites of the entire project. It can be smooth or chunky. Sweet or salty. Refreshingly cool or shockingly spicy. Imitating another country's approach to food is somewhat symbolic of welcoming their citizens into our nest, and that's one of the things I love about the USA. Much like salsa itself, America is an infinite variety of different mixtures, and we're all the better for it.
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