American Cake - Cake #39: Orange Chiffon Cake

Time Period: 1946-1962

Though several of the cakes in this project were developed elsewhere and updated and/or perfected in America, chiffon is truly a homegrown bake. The style was invented by Harry Baker (no pun intended), who moved to LA in the '20s and began selling his cakes to local restaurants. He kept his technique (using vegetable oil instead of butter) a secret, finally selling it in 1948. This substitution made giant waves in the baking community, and now, using oil as the fat has become commonplace in all types of cakes.

So, how to put this? Do I not have the proper equipment? Am I not following the instructions correctly? Is Anne Byrn bad at conveying information when it comes to this family of cakes? Is it a combination of these factors? Because I have had terrible luck with every cake so far that depends on whipped eggs as the leavening agent. If I'm not supposed to grease the pan so that the batter can climb, how the hell is it supposed to get out of the tube pan?

I'll keep experimenting, and while it tasted fine and I was able to rescue it by turning into bread pudding, this one will join its angelic brethren at the bottom of the ranking.

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American Plate - Bite #55: Cracker Jack

Sometimes, it seems as if some of these American Bites caught on in the popular consciousness because of sheer, dumb luck. A spark hit at just the right time and place, and suddenly, it's an American institution. Sometimes, though, it takes hard work and a string of innovations to build something from an idea to an icon. Cracker Jack definitely belongs to that latter category. People have always found things to snack on, but until Cracker Jack came along, it was usually fruit, cheese, or nuts.

In 1872, Frederick Rueckheim opened a popcorn/candy business with his brother in Chicago. Innovation #1: Experimenting with just the right combination of popcorn, peanuts, and molasses to find one that was tasty, and that wouldn't fuse into an unchewable mass. The snack was a hit at the Chicago World's Fair, so the brothers trademarked the name ("crackerjack" meaning something super-cool) and expanded the business in 1896. Transporting the mixture in warm weather was an issue, though. Innovation #2: A friend of theirs named Harvey Eckstein introduced the brothers to packaging the snack in double-layered wax paper inside individual serving-sized sealed boxes. It worked so well that Eckstein's name joined the company.

Innovation #3: A hit song. Though cracker jack had been a standard offering at baseball parks for a time, once the now-familiar tune name checking it was penned around 1908, there was no stopping its cultural imprint. There's always way to improve on advertising, though, and the Rueckheims copied the Quaker Oats idea of including a coupon in each box. Innovation #4: Then they hit upon the idea of including a little toy or surprise, instead. The rest is history, and Cracker Jack stands as America's first mass-produced snack food. 

That said, Cracker Jack seems to have left its cultural import back in the '80s. You don't see or hear much about people eating it anymore, and I haven't seen it for sale at a ballpark in years. In fact, I couldn't even buy it from the store; I had to order some online. So how was it once I got it? Kinda not as good as I remember. There are other caramel corn mixes at supermarkets that are as good or better, and sadly, the prize was worthless as well - just a sticker that promised additional prizes for collecting more. So maybe Cracker Jack's days in the sun are over, but it's sure still a testament to American innovation.

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American Cake - Cake #38: French King Cake

Time Period: 1963-1979

Why is there a recipe for "French King Cake" in a book called American Cake? I don't know, ask Anne Byrn. Though this cake did originate in France, it's apparently become the King Cake of choice for home bakers in New Orleans, rather than the brightly-colored brioche cakes you see in most bakeries, though both are traditionally served on Epiphany.

Also known as Galette des Rois or Frangipane King Cake, this version is made with sheets of puff pastry, which are sealed around a square of almond-heavy cake batter. While making puff pastry from scratch would have been a nightmare not that long ago, the fact that you can buy it out of the freezer case at the grocery store now goes a long way to understanding how this one took over in home kitchen popularity.

I found it to also be very tasty, and honestly more flavorful than the other version of King Cake, which wasn't bad, but on the dry side, which this cake managed to avoid by incorporating the soft batter into the center. If there was one textural problem to this cake, it was the puff pastry itself. Know what puff pastry is? Flaky! That's a good thing, but when 80% of your cake is a double layer of it, it explodes into crumbs the second you press a knife to it.

That aside, I did enjoy this chapter of the project, and as long as you've got a broom handy to clean up after you slice it, it would be worth having again.

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American Cake - Cake #37: Chocolate Earthquake Cake

Time Period: 1980-1999

One of the more stressful aspects of cake baking is presentation. Sure, the most important thing for a cake to achieve is good flavor, but I won't deny that it hurts my heart a bit when one of my them comes out looking sad and ugly, no matter how delicious it may be.

Obviously, I'm not the only one that feels this way, because in the modern era, there's a shift towards recipes that embrace the mess, so to speak. So, instead of worrying about how to fix a flourless cake leavened with egg whites that cracks as it cools, what if the cracking was just an intentional part of the design?

Ironically, even with the permissive parameters, this one didn't turn out quite as expected, visually. No complaints, flavor-wise, as it came out as dense and fudgy as promised. But instead of the photogenic implosion on a soaring cake pictured in the cookbook, I just got a squat circle with some minor cracking on top, as well as that pinched seam around the center of the cake I've come to dread. 

As with a lot of the cakes in this project, I probably won't go rushing to make it again, but it was fairly tasty, and a nice straightforward recipe that could give me some much needed folding-egg-white practice, so maybe its fault lines will pop up again at some point.

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American Plate - Bite #54: Cold Cereal

There have probably been ingredients and dishes throughout human history that were remarkably delicious or healthy, but without a confluence of events to bring them widespread attention, they just faded into obscurity. When the fates align, however, something can burst onto the scene and stay there. Cold cereal might have just sat in the realm of religious zealots, but with advances in marketing and technology, it had no problems catching on nationwide. You'll recognize the last names of a lot of innovators of cold cereal, from Sylvester Graham (Graham crackers and granola) to the Kellogg brothers (Corn Flakes) to Charles William Post (Grape Nuts). Far from concentrating solely on business, these men were wholly convinced that their cereals, in concert with a regimen of high-grain diets and Christian morality would solve a host of ills, from dyspepsia to masturbation.

The cereal was prescribed almost like medicine, and it's not surprising that people who ate more grain and less fatty meat for breakfast probably had improved health outcomes. Plus, cereal was a lot more affordable than the heavier breakfast offerings at the time. Combine that with the rise of train travel to spread the message, the reduced cost of print advertisements, and the inception of the first grocery chain, and cold cereal's placement in the pantheon of American food was solidified.

It's hard to imagine an American household that doesn't eat cold cereal. I'm sure I've tried dozens of different ones over the course of my life, and there's usually at least two boxes in the pantry. We weren't allowed the super-sugary ones as a kid, and I think that was ultimately the right choice. Sure, when I went off to college, I went crazy for a while for the ultra-chocolately ones or the marshmallow ones. Now that I'm a cereal-buying adult, though, I'm back to the granola and fruit/nut flakes. The Kellogg brothers would be so proud of me for that. Probably not for other parts of my life, though.

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The American Cake Project

The American Plate Project continues, but even as I explore the wide range of the foods the contributed to modern American cuisine, certain subsets draw me into their gravitational pull. Cake is mentioned twice on the American Plate Project list, and that's no accident. Americans love their sweets, and have been baking cakes since we first set foot on these shores.

It's common knowledge among my friends and loved ones that baking is a particular hobby of mine, so when I received American Cake (by Anne Byrn) for Hanukkah, it was "gently" suggested that I expand my food project by examining the history within. Of course, there's no better way to examine cake history than by baking the recipes in the cake history book.

Much like The American Plate, this book is split into different eras of time:

1) 1650-1799: Baking Cakes in Early America
2) 1800-1869: New Cakes & New Directions
3) 1870-1899: A Scientific Approach: Baking Powder & Fannie Farmer
4) 1900-1916: Birth of the American Layer Cake
5) 1917-1945: Baking in the Good Times & the Bad Times
6) 1946-1962: Tupperware, Bake-Offs, & a New Domesticity
7) 1963-1979: American Cake Times Are a-Changin'
8) 1980-1999: Cakes Born in the USA
9) 2000 to the Present: The Cakes of the New Millennium

Some of these chapters may have overly cutesy names, but this looks like a pretty natural breakdown of history, both food-related and otherwise. The rules for the American Cake project are similar to its cousin:

#1: No need to work from beginning to end. I can tackle these in whatever order is most convenient.

#2: I have to do my best to make these cakes in the spirit in which they were intended. If the people of that time period just couldn't enjoy a cake without walnuts in it, then the cake gets walnuts, even if they're not my favorite addition.

#3: There are some cakes that I can tell from the outset I won't enjoy. Simple solution: Find someone who will. Cakes make great gifts, after all.

#4: I'll do my best to use any specialized ingredients or equipment, but in some cases, it may be impossible. In those instances, I'll either get as close as I can, or will substitute something that isn't in the book, but that I personally feel is an important American cake.

Time to get cracking! I sense a lot of flour purchases in my immediate future.

Cakes Accomplished

Cake #1: American Gingerbread
Cake #2: Chocolate Stout
Cake #3: Martha Washington Great Cake
Cake #4: Classic Pound Cake
Cake #5: Shoofly Pie
Cake #6: Strawberry Shortcake
Cake #7: Lemon and Molasses Spice Marble Cake
Cake #8: Granny Kellet's Jam Cake
Cake #9: Scripture Cake
Cake #10: Chez Panisse Almond Torte
Cake #11: 1-2-3-4 Cake

Cake #12: Wacky Cake

Cake #13: Angel Food Cake

Cake #14: Fraunces Tavern Carrot Tea Cake

Cake #15: Pineapple Upside-Down Cake

Cake #16: 1917 Applesauce Cake

Cake #17: Cowboy Cake
Cake #18: Ocracoke Fig Cake

Cake #19: New Orleans King Cake

Cake #20: George Washington Carver's Peanut Cake

Cake #21: Mary's Cherry Upside-Down Cake

Cake #22: Hershey Bar Cake

Cake #23: Moosewood Cardamom Coffee Cake

Cake #24: Malinda Russell's Washington Cake
Cake #25: Cinnamon Flop
Cake #26: Bangor Brownies
Cake #27: Louisiana Syrup Cake
Cake #28: 17th-Century Cheesecake

Cake #29: Brown Derby Grapefruit Cake

Cake #30: Julia Child's Queen of Sheba Cake

Cake #31: Beet Red Velvet Cake

Cake #32: Lois's Original Plum Torte
Cake #33: Alaska Rhubarb Cake
Cake #34: Cold Oven Pound Cake

Cake #35: Mary Lincoln's White Almond Cake
Cake #36: Lazy Daisy
Cake #37: Chocolate Earthquake Cake

Cake #38: French King Cake

Cake #39: Orange Chiffon Cake

Cake Ranking

#1: American Gingerbread

#2: Martha Washington Great Cake

#3: Alaska Rhubarb Cake

#4: Pineapple Upside-Down Cake

#5: Chez Panisse Almond Torte

#6: Louisiana Syrup Cake

#7: Lois's Original Plum Torte

#8: Ocracoke Fig Cake

#9: Mary's Cherry Upside-Down Cake

#10: Strawberry Shortcake

#11: 17th-Century Cheesecake

#12: Shoofly Pie

#13: Moosewood Cardamom Coffee Cake

#14: 1917 Applesauce Cake

#15: Fraunces Tavern Carrot Tea Cake

#16: George Washington Carver's Peanut Cake

#17: Beet Red Velvet Cake

#18: Lazy Daisy

#19: Julia Child's Queen of Sheba Cake

#20: Chocolate Stout

#21: Mary Lincoln's White Almond Cake

#22: Chocolate Earthquake Cake

#23: French King Cake

#24: Bangor Brownies

#25: Hershey Bar Cake

#26: Lemon and Molasses Spice Marble Cake
#27: Cold Oven Pound Cake

#28: New Orleans King Cake

#29: Wacky Cake

#30: Granny Kellet's Jam Cake

#31: Cinnamon Flop

#32: Cowboy Cake

#33: Brown Derby Grapefruit Cake

#34: Malinda Russell's Washington Cake

#35: Classic Pound Cake

#36: 1-2-3-4 Cake

#37: Orange Chiffon Cake

#38: Scripture Cake

#39: Angel Food Cake

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American Cake - Cake #36: Lazy Daisy

Time Period: 1900-1916

There isn't much to the history of Lazy Daisy cake. A woman submitted a recipe to a local newspaper in 1914, they printed it, other publications picked it up, and a shortening company employed it in their ads. Popularity ensued. There's not much to the name, either. People have always like rhyming names, and "lazy daisy" is even part of the lyrics to the flowerbed song in the original Alice in Wonderland.

It's an apt description of the cake's preparation as well. No need to separate eggs or sift the dry ingredients. You just make a sponge cake, mix and heat the topping ingredients in a saucepan, pour over the top, and bake. There is the last step of gently broiling it so the coconut toasts, but that's pretty simple as well.

I guess what's most notable about this cake is that I ate it. I've spent the better part of my life avoiding shaved coconut, due mostly to texture issues. I liked this, though. It's fairly sweet, so you don't need much, but the brown sugar mixed with the coconut helps blend the flavors, and softens the coconut so that it's not so grating on the teeth. Does the Lazy Daisy signal a seismic shift in the already-short list of foods I don't eat? Time will tell!

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