American Plate - Bite #75: SPAM

Sunday, January 13, 2019
Americans like to romanticize the humble meals of other counties, but we have plenty of humble ingredients, ourselves. Nobody could ever accuse SPAM of being upscale, but it's been consistently popular since its inception by Hormel in 1937. Named for its components (Shoulder of Pork and Ham), it made its debut at just the right time. Fresh meat was too expensive during the Great Depression, and when WWII kicked off, SPAM was perfect for use in the military as well. Rationing and the short shelf life of certain foods meant that people needed cheap, long-lasting items for their bare pantries, and SPAM fit the bill.

Convenience is not the only thing that sold it, though. As the US military moved from country to country during the war, other nations also started developing a taste for it. It remains popular in places like Korea, Guam, and the Philippines. SPAM also made up a large part of the diet fed to the Japanese American citizens unfairly interned in camps during the war, but when they left, they kept it in their recipe books; SPAM-based sushi (called Spam Nori) is still eaten today.

It even became something of a comfort food in Britain, which led to it being lampooned by Monty Python, which may have led to its adoption as a term for junk email. Wild ride, huh?


It's trendy to criticize SPAM, and while I wouldn't serve it at a dinner party, I share a kinship with some of those citizens just trying to fill up on an inexpensive, easy dinner sometimes. Many a night when I'm trying to pinch pennies, I can turn to a can of SPAM, fry it up in butter and spices, and mix it into a bowl of scrambled eggs. It's not fancy, but it's hearty and simple - two qualities that Americans pride themselves on.

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